I'm just back from my annual harvest-time tour of Austria. (There's nothing like annoying the wine makers when they're really busy!) The good news is that the 2008 vintage is looking good, with lots of grapes still hanging as of October 1st. The better news is that some of the 2007's are remarkable.
One that's especially worth mentioning is from Heidi Schröck, one of the lights behind Eleven Women and their wine. It's a field blend of white varieties that she's calling Vogelsang. It's a white with arresting concentration and structure and a commanding bouquet of pears and floral notes with an attractive minerality.
Along with her neighbors in Rust, Heidi is still making gorgeous Ausbruch dessert wines (her '06 is a beauty), but whites like this may well steal the show.
Lynn Hoffman, author of The New Short Course in Wine and the sexy wine and food novel, bang BANG.
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